Skylanders Trap Team for the Tablet is by far my children’s favorite version of this game. We were able to get two starter packs from Amazon for $10 each, just before the holidays. Can’t beat it. Unfortunately, like most, we found that the portal chews through batteries in around 4 hours, usually less.
I tried NiMH rechargeable batteries but unfortunately the portal does not show signs of life even though I verified full charge and that they work in other devices. I believe the portal requires alkaline batteries or simply does not like my brand of generic rechargeable batteries. I was successful in using my Second Wind battery charger to recharge the standard Duracell alkaline batteries and use them in the portal, but as is always this has diminishing returns with each charge.
My son was getting increasingly frustrated with this (admittedly first world) problem and I found myself wishing Activision had included a li-ion battery and charger. While I found a li-ion charging controller from Adafruit.com and considered this, it seemed a bit overkill in scope and cost for this task. Instead, I set out to simply supply power from the wall while allowing the standard batteries in the compartment to still function while he was mobile.
Luckily I found this instructible article by KelseyMH a that outlined the process of doing this very thing and the parts he used. I found the parts used in this instructible were a bit pricey, running upwards of $30 from Radio Shack. Instead I began looking for a switched power Jack and an ac adapter that would supply the appropriate power for the portal. I ended up finding and purchasing:
Size M Panel-mount Coaxial Power Jack w/Switch #:2264649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360964609409
$3.19 & free shipping
AC to DC 4.5V 1A Converter charger Adapter Power Supply 1000mA 5.5X2.1 + 2.5X0.7
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171414117936
$2.79 & free shipping
The power jack is from Radio Shack’s eBay store and was priced less than it’s identical retail counterpart with free shipping. This power jack includes a switch that cuts off the battery power when the AC Adapter is connected. The power adapter was exactly the right voltage for the Trap Team Portal so it would not cause damage. While the milliamperes are in excess of the 700ma required by the portal, it will not draw more than it needs and will not be a problem.
This article serves as a general tutorial to outline the process that I followed to great success. Please be aware that you should be have enough experience to solder electrical components and work with disassembling and reassembling the portal before attempting. Following this process of opening the portal and modifying the internal components will void the warranty and could render the device inoperable if not done correctly. I will assume no responsibility for the use of this information and will assume no liability for damages that result from the use of the information provided on this site. You must evaluate, and bear all risks associated with, the use of any Content on this site, including any reliance on the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of such Content.
List of Tools and Parts:
Radio Shack Size M (5.5 x 2.1) Panel-mount Coaxial Power Jack w/Switch #:2264649
4.5v (exactly) 700ma (minimum) Size M (5.5 x 2.1) Power Supply
24 Gage Wire, Black and Red
Small philips head screwdriver
Solder
Soldering Iron
Heat Shrink Tubing and lighter or heat gun to initiate shrinkage
Wire Cutters
Drill and 21/64″ Drill Bit
Wire Strippers (recommended)
10mm Socket or Wrench (to secure the nut on the jack)
Step 1. Remove the batteries from the unit. Remove the 5 rubber feet and the screws below as shown. If it went like it did for me, the adhesive will remain on the rubber feet and you can temporarily place them to the side. You’ll be putting them right back in place when we are done, so take care to not allow anything to come in contact with them that would reduce their naturally sticky nature.
Step 2. Remove the top the bottom of the unit, taking care for the black and red wire that connects the battery box to the circuit board at the front of the unit, just behind the button.
Step 3. Locate and drill a hole in the unit where you want the power jack to be located. Ensure that you have enough clearance inside the unit for the jack itself when it is reassembled.
Step 4. Install the jack snugly in the unit with the prongs standing at 9, 12 and 3 o’clock as shown in the image and diagram on the packaging. Do not over tighten. If you are concerned with the jack coming loose, use some lock tight and just make it snug. I did not use lock tight.
Step 5. Take a quick note as to where the red and black wires are located. Heat up the solder on the contacts of the battery box where the red wire connects. Once heated, it should pull away easily. Repeat step 5 for the black wire.
Step 6. Cut enough red wire to extend the original red power wire to connect to the jack. Strip the insulation back to expose 1/8th inch of exposed wire. Solder the red extension wire to the original red wire and cover with red heat shrink tubing to insulate. Repeat step 6 for the black wires.
Step 7. Solder the newly extended black wire to the shell contact at 12 o’clock. Solder the red wire to the center pin at 9 o’clock.
Step 8. Cut another red and black wire with enough length to reach from the original contacts on the battery box to reach to the newly installed power jack when the unit is closed up. Strip back 1/8th inch of wire on each end of each wire. Solder the red and black wire to the corresponding contacts using the reference notes you took in step 5 (or look at the pictures above).
Step 9. Solder the other end of the red battery box wire to the center pin at 9 o’clock. This will already have the red wire we soldered in earlier. This will likely not require much more solder to secure it, if any at all. Solder the black battery box wire to the normally closed contact at 3 o’clock.
Step 10. Reassemble the unit while taking care to pack the wires in properly to avoid obstruction. It should go together quite nicely if you didn’t cut your wires too long or too sort.
Step 11. With the batteries still removed from the unit (from step 1), plug the power adapter into the unit and then into the wall. The unit should power on and function. Unplug the power adapter and install batteries. Leave the battery door off. Test the unit on battery power to ensure functionality. If all is good, leave the batteries in and plug the unit into the wall. The unit should function on AC power with the batteries installed. The batteries should not get warm while the unit is plugged into AC power. If they do, unplug immediately and walk back through each one of the steps above to find out what you did wrong. Verify that your solder points are clean and do not bridge any unwanted contacts.
Step 12. Replace the feet over the holes and enjoy the ability to use Skylanders Trap Team for Tablet as long as you want while connected to AC power. You can also fall back on battery power for those times when AC power is not available.
